be my guest... a Foodie's guide to Dijon, issue 67
TGV Lyria sent me off to discover the best places to eat and drink in Dijon, so this is exactly what i did.
A couple of weeks ago, I was approached by TGV Lyria, who invited me to explore some French destinations through the lens of Be My Guest. I don’t think the train line needs an introduction, but I will say this: out of the 50+ times I’ve traveled to Paris so far, I’ve probably taken the TGV 48 of them. So I’d like to believe I manifested this.
Here’s issue 1 of 4 from our joint travel series, where I explore both familiar and new French destinations — all just one train ride away. First up: the city of Dijon in the Burgundy region. Just three hours from Zurich, getting there truly feels like hopping on and off a time machine — thanks to the 320 km/h speed, the royal treatment of the new Première Signature class (we may or may not have treated ourselves to champagne at 11 a.m.), as well as the delicious meal (a designated menu, elaborated by chefs Michel Roth and Danny Khezzar, includes brunch, snacks, or a full 3 course menu depending your travel schedule), served comfortably at your seat. Pair that with the beautiful views of yellow rapeseed fields, and by the time you reach your destination, you’ll feel like you’ve just woken up from a dream.
Speaking of food: With Dijon being the origin of the famous mustard, the theme for this issue pretty much presented itself. So here it is: A Foodie’s Guide to Dijon, tried and tested by yours truly (and my dad for that matter, who served as an excellent +1, except when he refused to share dessert?!).
À table!
The mains: lunch & dinner
Monique, Boire et Manger – Let’s start with the best: lunch at Monique’s, which was the culinary highlight of my trip. Tucked away in a charming alley in the old town, this unpretentious and welcoming spot serves a delicious three-course lunch (€28), with two options per course to choose from. They have a strong focus on seasonal, fresh, and raw ingredients, homemade cooking, and full transparency about the origins of their produce (as local as possible), and the menu changes weekly. Ours featured glazed carrots with mustard ice cream, lemon cream, and Parmesan crumble, followed by mashed potatoes with a white asparagus emulsion, grilled chard, egg yolk, blue cheese, and a walnut crumble. For dessert, there was milk rice and an almond financier (yes, we got both). If you’re only having one meal in Dijon, make sure it’s here. moniqueboireetmanger.fr
Spica – We spontaneously booked this place for dinner and were surprised to find the cool couple we’d met at Chez Bruno (read on) sitting next to us again—which usually means you’re in the right spot, correct? At Spica, a cozy bistro near the Halles market square, you’ll discover the refined, creative, yet approachable cuisine of Japanese chef Takaya Uchida, who previously worked in several gourmet restaurants in Tokyo. Think: creamy turnip soup with shrimp, trout roe, Parmesan, and white truffle oil, or a rack of suckling pig with parsnip purée and oyster mushrooms, then local fromages or fraises for dessert. The three-course surprise menu (€43) is paired with Burgundy wines, which is an excellent match. restaurantspica.com
La Menuiserie – Packed with locals and clearly a lunchtime favorite, this locavore café-restaurant serves no-fuss dishes made with ingredients from the Halles de Dijon market. Think lentil and grain salads, fresh focaccia sandwiches, or lamb chops with beans—kind of something you’d make at home, just better. Save room for dessert! lamenuiseriedijon.fr
Cibo – Angelo Ferrigno, head chef at the neo-bistro Cibo, was reportedly the youngest chef in France to receive a Michelin star in 2016. He is highly committed to sustainability and local sourcing, crafting dishes exclusively with ingredients found within a 200-kilometer radius of Dijon. The restaurant leans toward the slightly more upscale side (lunch starts at €55, dinner at €105), but the fact that it was fully booked on a random Tuesday likely speaks for itself. cibo.restaurant
The in-betweens: coffee, cake, wine and snacks
Chez Bruno – This corner bar is the kind of place you’d probably walk past unless you know what’s hiding inside: the most unique bar in Dijon. It’s intimate, a bit dark, and a little messy—dare I say, perfectly French? But if you manage to snag one of the few seats, you’re in for a treat: glasses (or bottles) of delicious natural wine, carefully selected cheeses, and thinly sliced ham carved right in front of you by the eponymous owner. Spend an hour here, and you’ll want to come back the next day; spend an evening, and you’ll leave as friends with everyone. @baravinsbrunodijon
La Causerie des Mondes – A cozy café and tea room that serves snacks all day, but is especially perfect for a coffee and cake break between sightseeing. Just like at grandma’s house, the gâteaux are sweet, generously portioned, and served with a side of chantilly. lacauseriedesmondes-restaurant.dijon.eatbu.com
Beurre Noisette – A boulangerie and pâtisserie in the city center that I’d probably visit every day if I lived there. beurrenoisette.com
Cité de la Gastronomie et du Vin – The complex at the edge of the old town is a cultural and culinary center dedicated to French gastronomy and wine heritage. Walk through the gourmet village or the large wine bar, and you’ll be reminded of why you came here in the first place: the cheeses! The wines! The charcuterie! The bread! The mustard! Speaking of which…
Moutarderie Edmond Fallot – … I am officially a certified mustard maker. After a fun workshop at the iconic Moutarderie Edmond Fallot, I can tell you all about the differences between Dijon, Beaune, and regular mustard… (or can I?). fallot.com
The best of the rest: Where to stay, what to see & do
Hotel Mama Shelter – Getting a good night’s sleep is always important, especially when you have a lot to digest—literally. Mama Shelter is a fun, affordable, and perfectly located place with colorful interiors and super-friendly staff. From there, everything is within walking distance—even the train station, just 10 minutes away. Definitely your best option. mamashelter.com
Consortium Museum – With mostly historical museums and sights, there are only a few places in Dijon that exude a contemporary energy. One of them is Consortium, an art center housed in a minimalist building designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. In the bright and airy space, a short walk outside of town, it hosts eight exhibitions each year, featuring previous contributions by Jorge Pardo, Yayoi Kusama, and Sylvie Fleury. leconsortium.fr
Les Halles de Dijon – There are few places where you can grasp a city’s vibe better than in the aisles of the local market hall. Les Halles de Dijon, a covered market in the heart of the city, is open most mornings throughout the week, with vendors occasionally spilling into the surrounding streets, creating a lively atmosphere.
That’s it for this week, folks. See you soon.
Bisous, Charlotte
Charlotte Fischli
Editor, Arts & Culture
Get in touch: hello@charlottefischli.com.
@charlotte_antonia
www.charlottefischli.com
*This issue of Be My Guest was kindly supported by TGV Lyria. With special thanks to Dijon Office du Tourisme.